5 good things - Italy edition
and an Italian grandmother's recipe for cream semifreddo
After 7 blissful days in Rome and Venice last month, I had to compile an Italy-specific list of good things. A series of cancelled plans during pandemic times finally culminated in this trip with my sister, parents and parents-in-law. Much was seen, done, and eaten, but as ever, you get a digestible version.
First of all, I was surprised by how spotless Rome was. I was there last in July 2015 and have fuzzy memories of too many selfie sticks in my face and a terrible migraine (from all that house wine and not enough water in 100-degree weather). This time was very different, I think mainly because it was April. The weather was absolutely perfect - a few random showers but mostly a very pleasant 65-75F and the city was a lot less crowded.
Iām still dreaming about all the in-season produce we had - artichokes (steamed and fried), fava beans, peas, asparagus, tomatoes.š
But first - sign up for The Vegetarian Reset Challenge!
Itās back! All you need is a copy of my cookbook. When you sign up, you get a 4-day meal plan and shopping list using recipes from the book that are perfect for meal prep and reinvention.
Take the plunge - 4 days without refined grains and added sugar will leave you feeling energetic, inspired and #readyforsummer.
Back to regular programming. Here is my highlight reel with assorted recommendations.
Rome
This is a really great car+guide service. Ask for Massimo!
Trastevere - Gorgeous neighborhood, great nightlife. Wanted to go to Taverna Trilussa, Dar Poeta, or Tonarello but ended up at the restaurant around the corner from Tonarello which was also lovely. Food just tastes better with that outdoor ambience.
Retrobottega - a modern wine bar with communal seating, offers a vegetarian tasting menu which was very v8well-friendly.
Pinsitaly Trevi- a hidden gem near the Trevi fountain - the best pizza we had in Rome?
Vini e Buffet - a cute spot near the Pantheon that serves large salads and interesting crepes - a nice little change from all that pasta and pizza. Thanks to
for the recommendation!More great recommendations from Annie that we couldnāt get to - Salumeria Roscioli, Rimessa Roscioli, Rinascente rooftop, Ciampino, Cul de Sac, Da Enzo (I have so much FOMO and need to plan another trip asap)
Rome by night - you HAVE to do this! The Vatican, Colosseum and Roman ruins are just spectacular at night.
One of the oldest wineries in Rome, in the Frascati region (hills south of Rome). This was a last minute plan for a quick tasting on our last day but turned into a half-day with a 4-course vegetarian meal - probably the best we had in Rome. The winery and tasting room are absolutely gorgeous, but more so the charming family that runs it - everyone from the grandparents, to the son whoās to their 3 month old cherub. Small batch, organic wine and olive oil. <must do>.
Chef Flaminia
We hired a personal chef recommended by our Airbnb for one evening. Chef Flaminia created a full vegetarian menu for us - complete with 2 appetizers - ratatouille puffs and bruschetta, 2 entrees - asparagus pasta (a version coming in Weeknight Simple), pesto with green beans and potatoes, and a dessert that was essentially a vanilla cloud served with strawberries that I inhaled. It is her grandmotherās recipe and she is kind enough to share it with us today!
Venice
Definitely book a private water taxi from the train station to your hotel or Airbnb - it absolutely upgrades your experience! But be sure to pre-book, as itās very hard to hail one off the canals (we tried, believe me). The gondolas are great obviously, but somehow I loved this water taxi more.
Cichetti tour - <must do> Cichetti is a happy hour tradition in Venice, essentially hopping wine bars/restaurants with a glass of wine and a small appetizer. The last time I went, we did the Rick Steves version with my husband navigating on his Blackberry (you try using Maps on Blackberry if you still have one, it takes talent). But this time, we booked a tour from Viator which was wonderful and did a great job of curating sumptuous vegetarian food at each restaurant (remember to ask for vegetarian when you book). We also met some lovely people from all over the world in our group and continued to bump into them the rest of our time in Venice. We also separately went for cichetti at Sepa - which was excellent also with a large vegetarian selection.
Suso - for gelato - they have some interesting flavor combinations. Fun fact I learnt on this trip - in gelaterias, all the fruity flavors (strawberry, mango, etc.) tend to be sorbets (no cream). If you want dairy-based ice cream, go for nutty or chocolate flavors - pistachio, hazelnut, gianduja, Stracciatella, etc.
Farini - for pizza. Grab some slices to go for your train ride!
Cafe Florian - for some pricey coffee and pastry with music.
The Duck Store on the Rialto Bridge - if you have a duck obsessed toddler :)
Touristy shopping
Get your fill of leather bags, pasta seasoning packs (I may have bought too much) and everything thatās made out of pistachio.
PS: Definitely not Italian, but a big shout out to Saravana Bhavan in Rome, which served up some delicious food to spice-starved Indian travelers - if you know, you know.
Vanilla Cream Semifreddo with Fresh Strawberries
Recipe courtesy Chef Flaminia
Serves 6
Ingredients:Ā
5 whole eggsĀ
5 tablespoons of sugarĀ
500ml whipping cream
Directions:
Separate the yolks from the whites, and whip with an electric whisk or stand mixer, the yolks with the 5 tablespoons of sugar for at least 5 to 7 minutes.Ā
In another bowl, whip the egg whites until stiff. And in the third bowl, whip the liquid cream.Ā
In the bowl with the whipped yolks with the sugar, add the whipped cream and the stiffly whipped egg whites.Ā
Place the mixture inside a plum-cake mold, with baking paper, or in single-serving cups, and chill in the freezer.Ā
Serve with fresh strawberries, chocolate sauce, fresh fruit, berry sauce.Ā
Thanks for this real yet virtual trip through Rome
Glad to hear you had a great time in Italy!